Traveling Back to the United States
Going the LONG Way
27 Sep 1965 - 23 Oct 1965
Part 2
We left Japan on Monday, 27 Sep 1965, with plans flying as much as we could with the military. Getting out of Japan with no scheduled flights was adventurous, but I would not do it now as an adult. Flying from Yokosuka to Okinawa, Japan, then on to the Philippines with delays; & then on to Saigon, South Vietnam, & on to Bangkok, Thailand. We experienced a couple of delays with plane & later war problems in New Dehli, India. My parents then moved on to commercial flights. My father made arrangements for us to fly with Air France to Columbo, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) & transfer to another flight to Karachi, Pakistan, & another transfer flight to Tehran, Iran. What happened was the adventure!
Saturday, 2 Oct 1965 - My mother continues in her travel journal.
I wonder if Gib purchased those same stamps for his stamp collection.
Our cabbie waited & then took us back to the hotel about 1430. For ฿70 ($3.50) we had a 3-hour tour of the city. In the lobby restroom to freshen up & in the Silver Room at the hotel for lunch. Mr. Elhail joined us for a short chat. The desk clerk came in to tell us they removed our bags from room. After lunch, we waited in lobby playing cards, writing, etc. until airport transportation arrived at 5PM. Drove different route out of the city where we saw country sights on back roads than on the main highway. At the airport, our luggage taken directly to Air France check-in & Stan didn’t even have the tickets! While he arranges for the tickets, he learns we can only use American Express Card to Paris or New York. What a predicament as we only brought $300 Travel Cheques with us intending to go American Express all the way. He has to straighten this out by buying tickets all the way to Paris & will be reimbursed when we get to Paris, even though we are going to Tehran. While children & I wait in the lounge, our flight is announced & there is no Stan. He finally arrives just as the bus is loading for our plane. We ride out to the plane & board. We have a French & a Japanese stewardess & a French steward in our section. Many empty seats so Stan & Gib share 3 seats. Mary & I the 3 behind them. Many nationalities represented. A young pregnant woman with a small baby about 1 year sit across from us. We take off at 1900. Towels & candy. I read the paper, Dad & I have Scotch & water, followed by a delicious dinner from a French menu. Beef with mushroom gravy, cooked celery hearts, Prosciutto ham salad & vegetable salad, canned water, French rolls, fresh Thai fruits & later café. Mary went to sleep & I tried to go to sleep. Stan & Gib play cards & sleep. We arrive at Colombo, Ceylon, about 1945 with a one-hour stopover. Airport terminal rather primitive lent of tropical atmosphere, open with rough tables & rattan chairs. As Mary & I walk hand in hand, she tripped on step & turned her ankle. Almost took me down with her. I got her in a chair & I examined her, it looks OK. Everyone was concerned. Airport office comes to inquire. Ceylonese waiter & attendant, Indian type, bare feet, long white skirts with white mess jackets. Stan & Gib to post office desk to buy stamps. Mary & I join them. A young mother asked if I could speak English & then she asked for help. She is a Belgian evacuee from East Pakistan (now Bangladesh), who spent 15 days at the Belgian embassy in Bangkok, she got word from the Belgian government that her husband (a Doctor) had left East Pakistan on the 29th to Ceylon. She wanted Stan to call a certain Catholic hospital to see if he might be there as Belgium has no government representative in Ceylon. She was on her way home but wanted to talk to her husband if she could find him. She is 6 months pregnant & with an 11-month old baby, Isabel. She says she started to learn English only 6 months ago. Does very good. After many phone calls, Stan was unable to locate her husband. While waiting, Mary & I played with little Isabel. We were served a carbonated grape or lime drink. The grape was different but good. We return to our plane, a Boeing 707. We spoke Japanese to the Japanese stewardess & learned she lived in Yokohama. Announcements made in French, English & Japanese. We taxied down the runway but called back to the terminal for some unknown reason. We were asked to depart from the plane. When we got back on, Gib was not with us so Dad ran all way back to the terminal. Gib had gone back to the men’s room. We took off at 2145. Slept to Karachi.
Persian rugs drying after they are woven. They are plunged into pond cold water then spread to dry in the sun for colorfastness.
Thursday, 7 Oct 1965 -
We depart Tehran, Iran, at 0720 taking Air France to Beirut, Lebanon. We arrive at Beirut at 0810 to depart within the hour to fly to Athens, Greece. We land at 1115. Martha sends another postcard to her in-laws.
 |
| Mary, Gib & Martha in Tehran, Iran |
We left Japan on Monday, 27 Sep 1965, with plans flying as much as we could with the military. Getting out of Japan with no scheduled flights was adventurous, but I would not do it now as an adult. Flying from Yokosuka to Okinawa, Japan, then on to the Philippines with delays; & then on to Saigon, South Vietnam, & on to Bangkok, Thailand. We experienced a couple of delays with plane & later war problems in New Dehli, India. My parents then moved on to commercial flights. My father made arrangements for us to fly with Air France to Columbo, Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) & transfer to another flight to Karachi, Pakistan, & another transfer flight to Tehran, Iran. What happened was the adventure!
Saturday, 2 Oct 1965 - My mother continues in her travel journal.
I awake at about 0730 but lie in bed as the others sleep soundly. The phone rings at 9AM, Mr. Peter asking if we want to tour the Royal Grand Palace. Told him we had other plans. Woke everyone up to get dressed & down to breakfast. Children had pancakes with white Karo syrup. They said tasted like doughnuts. My drip dray dress needs no pressing. Our packed bags ready to be removed from the room. After breakfast took a cab to the American Embassy, through Embassy Row. Our cab driver pointed out many interesting spots to us. “The White House” he called the Prime Ministers residence also called the Kittakacharn, He drives on the left side of the road. There are pictures of the King & Queen Sirikit everywhere. We passed the MAAG (Military Assistance Advisory Group) Compound which we later returned to after leaving the U.S. Embassy. To this point, I was much impressed by apparent cleanliness & wide neat streets of Bangkok; but, driving through the Chinatown district was an eye-opener as this area was the complete opposite of Bangkok with congested traffic & filthy streets. The people seem pleasant & happy enough though. After leaving the embassy, it took at least an hour to go a few blocks to reach the MAAG Compound. Noticed the Thai equivalent of a lei in the flower shops. They are straight in length of various colored rope with fancy knotted tassels on either end. I noticed theses hung around the necks of a few passengers at the airport. At the Compound, our cab driver waits. At the exchange, we bought more film. Also saw the Indian stripe Madras bedspreads I’ve been wanting to get for Gib. They were $2.75 ($2.95 at Clark) but didn’t have in blue-green. Stan had to go to an office for a special permit to buy cigars. Mary & I look around. I broke my sunglasses in half at the nose piece. Bought new ones (blue) as that was all they had for 60¢ but not as good as my American opticals. Mary & I looked around the Oriental shop upstairs but they didn’t have much. In the area was also a commissary, a very busy place. We were back to the cab who took us back through the congestion to a stamp store where Gib got Thai stamps & I bought & wrote postcards.
Here is a postcard, Martha writes to her in-laws. (She mails the postcards & Stan’s letter to her parents from the MAAG compound.)
I wonder if Gib purchased those same stamps for his stamp collection.
Our cabbie waited & then took us back to the hotel about 1430. For ฿70 ($3.50) we had a 3-hour tour of the city. In the lobby restroom to freshen up & in the Silver Room at the hotel for lunch. Mr. Elhail joined us for a short chat. The desk clerk came in to tell us they removed our bags from room. After lunch, we waited in lobby playing cards, writing, etc. until airport transportation arrived at 5PM. Drove different route out of the city where we saw country sights on back roads than on the main highway. At the airport, our luggage taken directly to Air France check-in & Stan didn’t even have the tickets! While he arranges for the tickets, he learns we can only use American Express Card to Paris or New York. What a predicament as we only brought $300 Travel Cheques with us intending to go American Express all the way. He has to straighten this out by buying tickets all the way to Paris & will be reimbursed when we get to Paris, even though we are going to Tehran. While children & I wait in the lounge, our flight is announced & there is no Stan. He finally arrives just as the bus is loading for our plane. We ride out to the plane & board. We have a French & a Japanese stewardess & a French steward in our section. Many empty seats so Stan & Gib share 3 seats. Mary & I the 3 behind them. Many nationalities represented. A young pregnant woman with a small baby about 1 year sit across from us. We take off at 1900. Towels & candy. I read the paper, Dad & I have Scotch & water, followed by a delicious dinner from a French menu. Beef with mushroom gravy, cooked celery hearts, Prosciutto ham salad & vegetable salad, canned water, French rolls, fresh Thai fruits & later café. Mary went to sleep & I tried to go to sleep. Stan & Gib play cards & sleep. We arrive at Colombo, Ceylon, about 1945 with a one-hour stopover. Airport terminal rather primitive lent of tropical atmosphere, open with rough tables & rattan chairs. As Mary & I walk hand in hand, she tripped on step & turned her ankle. Almost took me down with her. I got her in a chair & I examined her, it looks OK. Everyone was concerned. Airport office comes to inquire. Ceylonese waiter & attendant, Indian type, bare feet, long white skirts with white mess jackets. Stan & Gib to post office desk to buy stamps. Mary & I join them. A young mother asked if I could speak English & then she asked for help. She is a Belgian evacuee from East Pakistan (now Bangladesh), who spent 15 days at the Belgian embassy in Bangkok, she got word from the Belgian government that her husband (a Doctor) had left East Pakistan on the 29th to Ceylon. She wanted Stan to call a certain Catholic hospital to see if he might be there as Belgium has no government representative in Ceylon. She was on her way home but wanted to talk to her husband if she could find him. She is 6 months pregnant & with an 11-month old baby, Isabel. She says she started to learn English only 6 months ago. Does very good. After many phone calls, Stan was unable to locate her husband. While waiting, Mary & I played with little Isabel. We were served a carbonated grape or lime drink. The grape was different but good. We return to our plane, a Boeing 707. We spoke Japanese to the Japanese stewardess & learned she lived in Yokohama. Announcements made in French, English & Japanese. We taxied down the runway but called back to the terminal for some unknown reason. We were asked to depart from the plane. When we got back on, Gib was not with us so Dad ran all way back to the terminal. Gib had gone back to the men’s room. We took off at 2145. Slept to Karachi.
Sunday, 3 Oct. 1965
Arrive Karachi at 0100. Got off & walked to the terminal. Looked at souvenirs. Then had coffee
courtesy of Air France. Spoke to a German couple & back to plane. We took off at 0200 & slept to Tehran. We arrived at 0330. We went through immigration. It was very cold. Mary & I were freezing in our summer dresses. Get luggage & taken to Carlton Hotel near the American Embassy by Air France in their minibus. The driver tried to talk us into Tehran Palace Hotel. [Maybe he knew this would be a better place for us to stay.] Arrived hotel at 0400. Had to wait for a desk clerk. Very sullen. Steward took us to 6th floor. 2 rooms. Would not give us 1 room with an extra bed at that hour. Our first reaction to this hotel was one of disappointment. Stan complained that the rooms were not cleaned nor ready, so they took us to 2 more. Stan & Gib in a suite, Mary & I across the hall in a smaller room. Our room had an unpleasant odor. But, we were too tired to think of anything but sleep, so to bed. Cold, as no blanket, only a sheet over us. Awake at 9AM. Stan & I discuss the room arrangement. Move all luggage into Stan's room. Dress & down to breakfast at 10:15. The waiter told us breakfast was served from 7-10, but for us, he would serve. The hotel had lots of marble & Persian rugs. Small hotel, the simple dining room just off the lobby with about 8 tables, a TV set & sofa arrangement in front of the TV. We had a simple breakfast of fried eggs, french rolls, Nescafe, butter & very good cherry preserves for the cold dry toast. After breakfast, Stan arranged for us to share their suite with extra beds in the sitting room for Gib & Mary. After breakfast, we took a walk seeing sights. Most places enclosed by high walls. Came to a square where we took pics in front of a statue. There were Iranian & Austrian flags galore in honor of a visit by Austrian president Jonas. Took a left turn off the square where there were many gift & Persian rug shops. Stopped in one where we looked at brass samovars & lanterns. Considered a lantern for $4. Walked further then took a right which brought us on to a more dilapidated street with curb shops (covered stands) selling mostly clothing, household wares, etc. One food cart had huge red beets cooked over charcoal pots with syrup to go over them. We stopped in a shabby looking restaurant for soft drinks (Pepsi & Orange seem to be only available). Big pot over fireboat at the entrance contains white thick pasty looking substance. Flatbreads in all sizes & shapes (round or oval) being handled & sold by street vendors. We saw horse & donkey carts.
On a street corner police box, Stan asked the man for directions to the Bazaar. We took a right & strolled in front of metal worker shops, broom making shops of little boys working diligently with great pride in their speed while we watched. Junk sellers including buttons on the bare sidewalk. Some people with just a few items to sell. One with empty jars of all sizes & shapes. Clothes where some must have been 10 times used. Herds of sheep with paint marks being guided through streets. Turn right into what we thought was the Bazaar. I hung on to my purse. Stan tells me that the men were staring at Mary & me. We hurried through the narrow dirt street where we came to an opening where more vendors sold their items on the ground, including old sewing machines, old phonographs, rusty locks & keys, & birds. We looked for a way out & took it. We walked on until we came to a mosque. In front of the mosque were stalls selling mostly chrome samovars & scales of all sizes, mortar & pestles in brass. Into walled mosque area where we looked into the open central area & watched the men at prayer. We moved on & took a cab back to the hotel. They brought an extra bed in for Gib. We got bathed & dressed after a short nap. Stan & Gib out to stamp & music stores. They came back with a Persian flute of 2 reeds, very difficult to play. Need lots of wind. We took a cab to the US Armed Forces O’ Club in the hilly suburbs. Women were dressed in their chada, mostly black & some small dull prints.
Had a cocktail with a nice dinner. A good soothing 4 piece band played for the diners. After dinner we looked through an art shop. We met an Army couple who just arrived a month ago from Pennsylvania. We took a cab back to our hotel & to bed.
Monday, 4 Oct. 1965
At 0500 Gib woke me up to feel his head. He was burning with fever. His temperature was 102.° The family went to breakfast while he stayed in bed. At 0700 Stan went to the American Embassy. I sent tea up for Gib. Mary & I went back to the room. Gib’s temp 104º. Stan returns. Says Navy Attache Capt. McCarthy sending his car at 1PM to take us to the hospital. We stayed in the hotel. We had dry Prosciutto ham sandwichs & coffee for lunch as full one meal costs $2 each for a French menu. Waited for McCarthy's car. About 1330 Mrs. McCarthy herself arrived. Very friendly & apologetic as she had taken other out of town friends shopping & didn’t know she had to be back at noon. Stan said Capt. McCarthy had tried to call her so I could go shopping with them too. She & their Iranian driver, Aly, took us the long distance out to the Army Hospital in the suburbs. Very nice hospital. Mrs. McCarthy went home. She then sent Aly back for us. Also offered her car for sightseeing tomorrow. Accepted. We spent about 2 hrs. in the hospital. Saw Dr. Houston. He told that Gib had a viral influenza. Temp still 104º. Aspirin, bed rest, lots of fluids. Aly takes us back to hotel. Gib back to bed about 1600. Putter around room. Then Mary, Dad & I around went around the corner to Semiramis Hotel for dinner on their roof garden. Have drinks. They have glass walls so we have a night view of the city. Watched the wild vehicular travel at the intersection below. Mary & Dad had a big chicken dinner. I had a chelo-kabob, which I couldn’t eat. It was a plain lamb (more like tough mutton) kabob on plain white long grain rice. Tasteless with a peculiar odor. This might be a little more decorative but the food at Carlton is better. After dinner, we walked back to the hotel. Watch TV for a while. American Armed Forces TV service from 4-11 PM. So to bed.
Tuesday, 5 Oct. 1965
Up at 7AM to bathe & dress. Call Dr. Houston. He told us to come out & pick up Gib’s medication. To breakfast in the hotel. Then we wait for Aly to pick us up.
This is where the diary ends in her composition/journal book. A writing tablet was inserted in the book (with some pages torn out) starting again a week later on Wednesday, 13 Oct 1965.
Using the Christmas 1965 letter, I can fill in the blanks from here. Mom writes:
We tried to get a military flight out of Iran, but would have to wait a week. As it was we spent 4 days there as Gib had a seize of traveler’s disease. The senior Naval Attache, Captain McCarthy, & his wife were wonderful to us. They took us to the US Hospital & gave us their car & driver to get around. They even invited us to stay at their house, but we thought it would be too embarrassing for Gib.
So, while he stayed in the hotel room, the rest of us were driven outside the city to see the way of life in Iran. We saw the old Shah’s tomb, watched the antiquated method of cleaning Persian rugs, & then toured the city; browsing around the old bazaar & other markets. We saw the crown jewels, the Shaw’s palace & made other many interesting observations too numerous to mention. I’m sure we saw all there was to be seen in Tehran. After Gib licked his problem, we flew again by Air France through Beirut, Lebanon, to Athens, Greece.
Persian rugs drying after they are woven. They are plunged into pond cold water then spread to dry in the sun for colorfastness.
 |
| Shah's Tomb |
 |
| Tile Architectural Feature |
 |
Entrance to the Shah's Palace
|
Thursday, 7 Oct 1965 -
Believe me, our time in Europe fares much better than the first half of this trip.
No comments:
Post a Comment